Given the sheer number of photos I took at this place, I figured it deserves its own blog entry, but first, a quick introduction. The rescue center is home to many exotic animals that are being rehabilitated for injuries or are unable to live in the wild or are targets for poachers. There are some individuals who are looking to make money in the lucrative – and illegal – trade of wild animals, sometimes as pets, sometimes for food, and often for “medicine”. I’ve heard the same story over and over about animal parts being used in Chinese medicine because they grant strength, health, and sexual superiority. I roll my eyes and shake my head at the stupidity of that thinking. Ranting aside, there are lots of cool animals at the rescue center and visitors can roam the grounds (unguided) for a small entrance fee. I opted instead for the behind-the-scenes tour, which is offered in appreciation of a large charitable donation to the center. As you’ll see below, the donation is easily worth it.
After being picked up by my driver/guide – I was the only visitor on the day I went – and driving for an hour south of the city, we pulled onto the property, turned onto a dirt road, and stopped abruptly, as a 3-ton elephant was walking towards us. I learned this was Lucky, a gentle giant (quite literally) that is allowed to go on walks through the property. We had caught her during her morning jaunt, so we spent some time feeding her and taking photos. A few locals (who can visit the park for only 50 cents per person) came over and fed her too.
After 15 minutes or so, we left Lucky and drove over to see the other elephants, who are usually not allowed to go on walks because they’re more aggressive and unpredictable. Lucky came back from her walk and painted me a t-shirt, a trick learned through positive reinforcement and no abuse, unlike some other places in Southeast Asia.
After art class came some sports therapy in the form of a sock change for Chhouk, an elephant who has a prosthetic foot. He was found injured in the forest some years ago, most likely as a result of stepping in a poacher’s snare. A school in Cambodia that works with human prosthetics was called in to design and construct an elephant prosthetic. The trainers have taught Chhouk a few “tricks” that help them with their care, including “lie down” and “lift up a hind leg”. These may not sound that impressive, but it’s quite something to see a massive beast make those moves on command.
Chhouk wears a sock over his leg underneath the prosthetic, which has to be changed twice a day. Note his generous treat at the very end (an entire bunch of bananas).
Next up was a visit with the eight tigers at the center, most of whom are paired off into “couples”. The one we visited the longest was prowling in her cage for a while before sitting down next to us and purring when we pet her. The tigers have large outdoor enclosures that they can wander in freely, but often when it’s hot, they like to stay inside and lay on the cool cement.
Next we visited the clouded leopards, of which only one was out and about due to the heat. Did I mention Cambodia is fucking hot?
Up next were many, many gibbons and two types of macaques. The gibbons were pretty amazing to watch (and incredibly fast) as they swung around on every branch, bar, and pole in their habitat.
After that we watched a family of smooth-coated otters for a while. The otters (one father and four kids) were quite entertaining as they just play all day. The children are particularly attached to pops, so if he goes anywhere, the entire pack follows.
Next was a black bear, a few sun bears, and a serow, which have funny blue tongues, but unfortunately I wasn’t able to get a photo.
After a very tasty Khmer lunch, complete with coconuts and some lazy time in hammocks (a Cambodian pastime), we joined Lucky for her afternoon walk. Although I was very much enjoying my iced sugar cane juice, Lucky insisted that she try some too, so I gave her half, then we continued on our stroll through the jungle.
Going on a walk with an elephant is similar to going on a walk with a dog, except a lot more trees are trampled or ripped down. It’s really something to witness the strength of an elephant in person; they can push (with their body) or pull (with their trunk) trees and snap them in half like twigs.
In fact, after shooting that last photo above, I had to duck out of the way because the top of that tree came crashing down where I was standing.
After saying goodbye to Lucky, we went over to the nursery to see all of the animals there: a baby cuckoo bird being hand-fed bugs by one of the employees, a few other cuckoo and Myna birds, a couple owls, and a hairy-nosed otter (the only one in captivity in the world!) enjoying a fishy lunch.
The last visit of the day was a habitat with four baby macaques, who jump and play and climb all over everything like… well, like monkeys.
And after all the fruit was eaten, the grooming started.
Once the macaques started getting a little too rambunctious (and climbing all over my camera), it was time to go.
As if the photos didn’t illustrate this already, the behind-the-scenes tour is really incredible and certainly one of the most memorable things I’ve done on my trip, plus the money goes to a really good cause. Win-win, no doubt. I highly recommend this experience for anyone going to Cambodia. Just maybe try to go when the weather isn’t face-melting hot.
Check out Wildlife Alliance and Phnom Tamao Zoological Park and Wildlife Rescue Center for more info.